Kwun Tong District, Kowloon

Kwun Tong: Factories Turned Fashionable and Seafood by the Harbour

Kwun Tong fills the east of Kowloon, the easternmost and southernmost district on the Kowloon side, with Victoria Harbour to its south and Hong Kong Island across the water. It grew up in the 1950s as one of Hong Kong's great industrial areas, its factory blocks rising across the district. Since the factories moved away, the district has been reinventing itself: old industrial buildings have become offices, studios and shopping malls, and the waterfront has opened up with a promenade along the old cargo shore. Kwun Tong is where Hong Kong's working city is changing in plain sight, and it is well worth a visit.

The town centre's landmark is apm, the big mall in Millennium City by Kwun Tong station, whose name plays on a.m. and p.m. because it stays open late. At the district's south-eastern tip lies Lei Yue Mun, a seafood village at the narrow eastern entrance to the harbour. Hakka quarrymen settled here in the early 18th century, and today visitors choose seafood from the tanks and have it cooked in the restaurants along the waterfront. Above the village, Devil's Peak rewards an uphill walk with the ruins of old forts and batteries, completed in the early 1900s, and one of the finest sunset views over the harbour. The Kwun Tong Promenade offers wide views of the water and the island skyline.

The good thing is that you can hire a limousine for the day and leave all the driving to someone else. The mall, the promenade, the village and the peak are spread across the district, and a car lets you link them without changing trains or walking long stretches of industrial road. You can shop in the afternoon, watch the sunset from Devil's Peak, and finish with a seafood dinner at Lei Yue Mun.

Arrive in style

Kwun Tong is a district of contrasts, and a limousine lets you enjoy them all in comfort. You step out of the car rested at each stop, whether you are heading into the mall or down to the seafood street. After a walk up Devil's Peak, it is good to sink back into a cool, quiet car and let the driver take you to dinner. The ride along the waterfront, with the harbour beside you, is a pleasure in itself.

Your chauffeur knows the area well and can plan a route from the town centre to the promenade and on to Yau Tong and Lei Yue Mun, timing the drive so you reach the village as the evening begins. The streets around the old industrial blocks can be confusing, so having a local driver at the wheel makes the whole day smoother. If you want to linger over dinner by the water, the car waits for you.

An Evening at Lei Yue Mun

Lei Yue Mun is at its best in the evening, when the restaurant signs light up along the waterfront and the typhoon shelter glitters with reflections. The lighthouse at the end of the village marks the eastern gate of the harbour. In the cooler months the views from Devil's Peak stretch far across the water. Kwun Tong rewards visitors who look beyond the factories and find the harbour, the history and the food.

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